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On this exciting and very interesting tour to Northern Argentina, we birding in a wide variety of habitats, which included Andean cloudforest, subtropical rainforest, desert scrub, arid chaco thorn woodland, puna steppe and a few wetlands. The main aim of the tour was to find all the Argentine endemics and a good number of other more range-restricted species. The varied itinerary produced many highlights, which included no less than five species of tinamous, the very uncommon Fasciated Tiger-Heron, a family party of spectacular Torrent Ducks, a beautiful adult King Vulture, spectacular Swallow-tailed Kites, a couple of Broad-winged Hawks, which are very scarce visitors to Argentina, the very uncommon Spot-winged Falconet, the range restricted Red-faced Guan, the decidedly uncommon Black-legged Seriema, the seldom seen Ash-coloured Cuckoo, the range restricted Hoy's Screech-Owl, the beautiful Slender-tailed Woodstar, the stunning Amazonian Motmot, the range restricted Spot-backed Puffbird, the seldom seen Black-bodied Woodpecker, the almost unknown Olrog's Cinclodes, the equally little known Steinbach's Canastero, the uncommon Black-capped Antwren, the incredibly skulking White-throated Antpitta, the unobtrusive Olive-crowned Crescentchest, both Crested and Sandy Gallitos, both White-browed and Zimmer's Tapaculos, the rare Dinellis Doradito, the extremely range restricted Salinas Monjita, the uncommon White-naped Xenopsaris, the equally uncommon Tucaman Mountain-Finch and the rarely observed Black-crested Finch, were just some of the many highlights of the tour.
Following a long and tiring flight from Australia, we arrived at Buenos Aires in the late morning, the capital city of Argentina, in the province of Buenos Aires. Following lunch we spent a very productive afternoon in the Costanera Sur Ecological Reserve in down-town Buenos Aires. It was hard to believe that we were birding along the edge or a burgeoning city of 13 million people. Just like Australia, Argentina has experienced drought conditions during the last 4 years and unfortunately the reserve was completely devoid of water. Even so, the birding was very good. The two main target birds of the area, Freckle-breasted Thornbird and the Black-and-rufous Warbling-Finch, were both seen very well. We also saw a great many other birds which included Olivaceous Cormorant, Great Egret, Maguari Stork, Southern Caracara, Kelp and Brown-hooded Gulls, Feral and Picazuro Pigeons, Eared Dove, Black-hooded and Monk Parakeets, Guira Cuckoo, Glittering-bellied Emerald, Chequered and Green-barred Woodpeckers, Rufous Hornero, Narrow-billed Woodcreeper, White-crested Tyrannulet, Small-billed Elaenia, Yellow-browned Tyrant, Great Kiskadee, Brown-chested Martin, White-rumped Swallow, Southern House Wren, Rufous-bellied and Creamy-bellied Thrushes, Chalk-browned Mockingbird, Masked Gnatcatcher, Southern Yellowthroat, Sayaca Tanager, Golden-billed Saltator, Saffron Finch, Rufous-collared Sparrow, Shiny and Bay-winged Cowbirds, Variable Oriole, Orange-backed Troupial, Hooded Siskin, House Sparrow, Common Starling and best of all, super close looks at the very uncommon and seldom-seen, Ash-colored Cuckoo.
The following morning we left the sprawling capital of Buenos Aires and flew to Cordoba, the capital city of Cordoba province, situated in the very centre of Argentina. From Cordoba we drove to the town of Capilla del Monte, where we stayed at a superb resort, which was surrounded by undisturbed sierran chaco, an upland version of the dry chaco. We enjoyed two full days exploring this wonderful habitat, where almost every plant and tree is covered in long, lethal looking thorns. The birding was very rewarding and new birds were plentiful. We scoped Spotted Tinamou, saw several Great Grebes, Whistling Heron, Snowy Egret, Yellow-billed Teal, Black and Turkey Vultures, Chimango Caracara, American Kestrel, Aplomado Falcon, Southern Lapwing, Spot-winged Pigeon, Picui Ground-Dove, White tipped Dove, Blue-crowned Parakeet, Blue-tufted Starthroat, Ringed Kingfisher, Spot-backed Puffbird, White-barred Piculet, Field Flicker, Chaco Earthcreeper, Brown Cacholote, Sooty-fronted and Stripe-crowned Spinetails, Short-billed Canastero, Lark-like Brushrunner, Firewood-gatherer, Scimitar-billed Woodcreeper, Variable Antshrike, Southern Beardless Tyrannulet, Greater Wagtail-Tyrant, White-bellied Tyrannulet, Bran-colored and Cliff Flycatchers, White and Black-crowned Monjitas, Cattle Tyrant, Tropical Kingbird, Fork-tailed Flycatcher, Southern Martin, Tawny-headed Swallow, Chiguanco Thrush, Rufous-browed Peppershrike, Black-capped Warbling-Finch, Stripe-capped Sparrow, Many-colored Chaco-Finch and Long-tailed Meadowlark. We also saw our first mammals today, the Common Cavy and the introduced Brown Hare.
The following morning we birded in the sierran chaco surrounding the resort, which quickly produced a whole new set of birds which included the majestic Andean Condor, a rather obliging Striped Cuckoo, we scoped a Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl, were thrilled to find the very scarce Black-bodied Woodpecker, played hide-and-seek with a Pale-breasted Spinetail, a Tufted Tit-Spinetail popped into view, the normally skulking Olive-crowned Crescentchest perched out in the open for all to see and a Crested Gallito was observed very well as it scurried along a track through the chaco. A Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant showed well, a stunning male Vermilion Flycatcher, was greatly admired, as were a couple of Crowned Slaty Flycatchers, a beautiful White-naped Xenopsaris was a surprise find, we enjoyed watching the very attractive White-tipped Plantcutter, Blue-and-yellow Tanagers were plentiful, a male Ultramarine Grosbeak took our breath away, a pair of Band-tailed Seedeaters was much appreciated and we also found a few Screaming Cowbirds.
Following a very fine lunch at a restaurant in Villa Carlos Paz, we stopped to go birding at the very large Lago San Roque, which proved very rewarding, as the lake was literally teaming with birds. New birds came thick and fast and included a few Pied-billed Grebes, several White-necked Herons, good numbers of White-faced Ibis, large flocks of White-faced Whistling-Ducks, smaller flocks of White-cheeked Pintails, several stunning Cinnamon Teal, a few uncommon Brazilian Ducks, huge numbers of White-winged Coots, a couple of dozen White-backed Stilts, a single Greater Yellowlegs, a small flock of Baird's Sandpipers and a single Stilt Sandpiper, half a dozen or so Wilson's Phalaropes and a small number of Blue-and-white Swallows were observed flying overhead.
The high Andes beckoned today and we drove high into the breathtaking Andes mountains, known as the Sierras Grandis, where we found clear blue skies and crisp mountain air. This morning we were to look for two species of very specialised, high altitude Argentine endemics. We soon located them feeding alongside a mountain stream and we enjoyed prolonged looks at both the Cordoba and the lesser known Orlog's Cinclodes. We also enjoyed a supporting cast of Black- chested Buzzard-Eagle, Red-backed Hawk, Andean Swift, Rufous-banded Miner, White-winged Cinclodes, Puna Canestero, Spectacled Tyrant, Grass Wren, Hellmayr's Pipit and Plumbeous and Ash-breasted Sierra-Finches. We added another mammal here, the Common Yellow-toothed Cavy.
The rest of the morning was taken up by a long drive northwards to Dean Funes, where we would overnight. As we neared the town we enjoyed good looks at a Greater Rhea and also saw a couple of Elegant Crested Tinamous feeding along the roadside. In the afternoon we visited the Salinas Grandes Saltfields, a large expanse of salt flats, surrounding a huge saline lake. Our main target species here was the highly localised and endemic Salinas Monjita. It proved difficult to find; as we searched the salt bush we added Burrowing Owl and the attractive White-banded Mockingbird, but the light failed before we found our main target bird. A little spotlighting on the way back to our hotel produced a very obliging Tropical Screech-Owl and very close looks at both Little and Scissor-tailed Nightjars.
The following morning we returned to the Salinas Grandes Saltfields, where we had much more time to search for the Salinas Monjita. We began by birding along the road leading to the salt fields, which was surrounded by dry chaco. Once again new birds were plentiful, we were very pleased to find the scarce Spot-winged Falconet, the uncommon White-fronted Woodpecker, Crested Hornero, Plain Inezia, Tawny-crowned Pgymy-Tyrant, Chaco Suiriri, Patagonian Mockingbird, Lowland Hepatic Tanager, Red Piliated Finch and the uncommon and range restricted Ringed Warbling-Finch, and best of all, the very attractive and uncommon Black-crested Finch. Once again we trudged through the salt fields and eventually enjoyed tremendous scope views of no less than three Salinas Monjitas. While walking back to our bus a single Great Pampa Finch was observed perching on top of one of the salt bushes. We also saw our first of many Pampas Foxes, in this area.
The afternoon entailed a very long drive to Tafi del Valle, in Tucuman Province, where we would stay for the next three nights. Breaking the long drive, we made a birding stop at a large pond, not far from the town of La Madrid. Our main target bird here was the extremely uncommon Dinelli's Doradito, which only breeds in a small area of Argentina. Fortunately, the bright yellow doradito performed brilliantly, hopping around in the tops of the reeds, which surrounded the small pond. We also found a surprisingly large number of other new birds here, these included Striated Heron, Savannah Hawk, a very obliging Rufous-sided Crake, an equally obliging Plumbeous Rail, Common Gallinule, Red-fronted Coot, Wren-like Rushbird, Greater Thornbird, Sooty Tyrannulet, Barn Swallow, Greyish Saltator, Grassland Yellow-Finch and Chestnut-capped Blackbird. Continuing our drive, we observed a Roadside Hawk, along the roadside! We then made a final birding stop along the Rio Los Sosa, a raging torrent, situated in the yungas cloudforest, a habitat that is unique to northwestern Argentina and southern Bolivia. New birds were also plentiful here, however, the bird that stole the show, was without doubt a family party of Torrent Ducks, mum, dad and three ducklings, which plied their way through the raging torrent, with ridiculous ease. Little wonder, that this species was named `Bird of the Tour`, by tour participants. We also saw another very special bird here, the world's scarcest species of dipper, the extremely range restricted and endemic Rufous-throated Dipper. We very much enjoyed watching a bird feeding along the edge of the river. Other new birds in the yungas cloudforest overhanging the raging torrent included flocks of Mitred Parakeets, a stunning Red-tailed Comet, Black Phoebe, Brown-capped Whitestart and Golden-rumped Euphonia.
Our first birding stop the following morning was at the nearby Angostura Reservoir. There were lots of birds around the edge of the lake and in the surrounding grassland. New birds along the edge of the lake included Coscoroba Swan, Brown Pintail, Red Shoveler, Red-gartered Coot, South American Snipe and the very attractive Andean Gull. In the grassland we found pairs of Andean
Geese, Andean Lapwing, both Short-billed and Correndera Pipits and a pair of uncommon Band-tailed Sierra-Finches.
We then spent the rest of the morning birding along the Rio Los Sosa, where we had birded briefly the previous day. We had more time to bird this area of beautiful yungas cloudforest, plus it was during the morning, this enabled us to find many new birds for the tour. We enjoyed watching a
Fasciated Tiger-Heron, a bird of fast flowing mountain streams, which is a very rare species in this area. We also observed the very beautiful Swallow-tailed Kite, a Short-tailed Hawk, a very close Peregrine Falcon, the very large Dusky-legged Guan, the secretive Large-tailed Dove, noisy flocks of Scaly-headed Parrots flew overhead, as did a large flock of White-collared Swifts, White-bellied Hummingbirds were numerous, a Dot-fronted Woodpecker put in a brief appearance, we enjoyed watching a Buff-browed Foliage-gleaner, White-throated Tyrannulets were conspicuous, we found three species of elaenias, Highland, White-crested and Slaty, both Cinnamon and Variegated Flycatchers, the tiny Mountain Wren, the uncommon Andean Slaty Thrush, the widespread Red-eyed Vireo, very active flocks of Common Bush-Tanagers, a few Fawn-breasted Tanagers, a superb male Black-backed Grosbeak, super close looks at the endemic Yellow-striped Brushfinch, a pair of very attractive Rusty-browned Warbling-Finches which only occurs in yungas cloudforest and a stunningly plumaged Golden-winged Cacique.
In the afternoon we made a visit to El Infiernillo Pass, alias Little Hell Pass, which incidentally is no exaggeration when the weather closes in. Fortunately the weather was glorious with a wonderful view of the valley below as we explored the pre-puna grasslands well above 3,000 metres. We flushed an Andean Tinamou at point blank range, enjoyed great looks at both Bare-eyed and Black-winged Ground-Doves, we found a flock of Grey-hooded Parakeets, had good looks at an Andean Flicker, a ground frequenting species of woodpecker, a Buff-breasted Earthcreeper showed well, saw our first of many Buff-winged Cinclodes, taped in the endemic White-browed Tapaculo, we enjoyed really close looks at the beautiful White-browed Chat-Tyrant, we found a pair of Plain-coloured Seedeaters, which are actually rather pretty, we enjoyed the Argentine endemic and extremely range restricted Tucuman Mountain-Finch and a small flock of Black Siskins were simply stunning. We also observed a Montane Cavy in this area.
The following day we spent the whole morning birding the gullies and hillsides along the west slope of Aconquija, not far from Tafi del Valle. New birds were plentiful and in no time at all, we were watching our first Ornate Tinamou along the side of the road. We also stopped to admire a beautiful Bay-winged Hawk which was perched in a nearby tree. We found several large flocks of macaw-like and macaw-sized Burrowing Parrots, an aptly named Giant Hummingbird was feeding on a flowering cactus, a Scale-throated Earthcreeper was observed feeding on the ground and both Plain-mantled and Brown-capped Tit-Spinetails were also observed very well. Streak-fronted Thornbird, Tufted and Yellow-billed Tit-Tyrants were all seen very well. Next, a Grey-bellied Shrike-Tyrant was admired before we had rather distant views of a solitary Spot-billed Ground-Tyrant. We enjoyed watching a male White-winged Black-Tyrant sat on a fence post and a Rufous-sided Warbling-Finch which hopped up in a nearby tree. The very sparsely clad puna grasslands were teaming with Mourning Sierra and Grey-hooded Sierra-Finches and large numbers of Greenish Yellow-Finches.
In the afternoon we visited an area close to Quilmes, where we were to look for two of Argentina's special gems, both of which, normally take some time to find. The first bird we searched for was the very unusual Sandy Gallito, which was eventually coaxed into view, and what a fine looking bird it is. Our next target bird was the very uncommon and particularly shy Black-legged Seriema. It took a little time before one came into the tape, but it did show very well in the end and we were all very pleased to find this very uncommon species. While searching for the Sandy Gallito, Michael Alderman observed a small mouse appear out of a hole in the ground. It took cover under a small bush, where we were all able to enjoy a really good look at the seldom seen Highland Gerbil-Mouse.
The following morning we left the major tourist route and drove into the badlands of the Calchaquies, a little to the north, in the province of Salta. Our main target bird here was the little-known Steinbach's Canastero. After weaving our way through a labyrinth of colourful sandstone pinnacles, columns and giant sandstone castles, we walked down a dry creek bed in search of our quarry. In no time at all, we all enjoyed great looks at the Steinbach's Canastero, an extremely range restricted species. In nearby scrub-land we also encountered the attractive White-throated Cacholote and the Southern Scrub Flycatcher. As we drove towards Coronel Moldes, a small Andean village, where we would spend the next two nights, we made a short birding stop at the
San Carlos Reservoir. Here we enjoyed scope views of three new species of birds, Black-crowned Night-Heron, Andean Duck and American Coot.
In the afternoon we visited Cabra Corral, a very large reservoir, just outside Coronel Moldes. Along the edge of the lake new birds included White-tufted Grebe, Roseate Spoonbill, Wood Stork, Silver Teal and the very uncommon Ringed Teal. On the grassland beside the lake we found a couple of Yellowish Pipits and flying overhead, we saw our first Southern Rough-winged Swallows of the tour. On higher ground above the lake a small patch of woodland produced Great Antshrike and Red-crested Cardinal, a stunningly attractive bird, which had only been glimpsed previously on the tour.
We spent the whole of the following day birding the Cuesta del Obispo Road, a road which climbs high up into the Andes Mountains. The incredibly arid, lunar-like valleys and hills were literally alive with birds, including such desirable new birds as Sparking Violetear, Azara's Spintail, Sclater's Tyrannulet, Smoke-coloured Pewee, Plush-crested Jay, Tropical Parula and Rusty Flowerpiercer. Three birds deserve special mention; we enjoyed good looks at the Maquis Canastero, which until recently was thought to be endemic to Bolivia. We also enjoyed incredibly good looks at the extremely range restricted Zimmer's Tapaculo, which came in extremely well to tape playback. The valley where we were birding is the only place in the world, where the extremely range restricted Rufous-bellied Saltator, is accessible by vehicle. We were not to be disappointed, as we enjoyed good close looks at this attractive species. As we drove back towards Coronel Moldes, we added two new species to our list, the beautiful Buff-necked Ibis and the Chaco Chachalaca. Back at our hotel some of the group were enjoying pre-dinner drinks when a White-eared Opossum was spotted in the garden, some members of the group managed to have a look at it before it disappeared down a drain!
Our first stop the following morning was the Camco Alegre Reservoir, which held good numbers of birds. New birds for the tour included a few Bare-faced Ibis, a large number of Fulvous Whistling-Ducks, a pair of Puna Teal, this is a surprisingly low altitude for this species, a good number of beautiful Rosy-billed Pochards, a couple of wintering American Golden-Plovers, a solitary wintering Semipalmated Plover, a single wintering Pectoral Sandpiper and a few Wattled Jacanas. Following a very fine lunch at a restaurant along the edge of the lake, we went birding along the
Cornisa Road, where once again, we found new birds which included the very uncommon Rufous-thighed Kite, Rufous-fronted Thornbird, Mottle-cheeked Tyrannulet, Eurler's and Piratic Flycatchers and both Pale-legged and Two-banded Warblers. Much of the rest of the afternoon was taken up by the long drive northwards to San Martin, in Jujuy Province. As we neared San Martin we managed to find three new species of birds for the tour, along the roadside, these were Cattle Egret, Plumbeous Kite and Smooth-billed Ani.
In the late afternoon we enjoyed our first foray into Calilegua National Park. New birds here included Pale-vented Pigeon, the attractive Golden-collared Macaw, the very large Squirrel Cuckoo and Brown-crested Flycatcher. As we were driving out of the park at dusk, a Brown Aguti was observed well, along the side of the track.
We spent the whole of the following day birding the lower slopes of the very beautiful Calilegua National Park which are carpeted in dense yungas cloudforest. We saw some very special birds today. One of which, was an adult King Vulture, which circled high above us, this bird is surprisingly beautiful, for a vulture. We also enjoyed great looks at a Hook-billed Kite in flight, this is a very uncommon bird, we also saw the even less common Rufous-thighed Hawk in flight, and a Broad-winged Hawk in flight, gave us four very rare species of raptors today. The Broad-winged Hawk is a very rare migrant to Argentina. We also enjoyed great looks at the largest species of toucan in the world, the stunning Toco Toucan. We enjoyed super looks at the very beautiful Amazonian Motmot, which was at the southernmost point of its distribution, we enjoyed good looks at the very uncommon Ochre-cheeked Spinetail, the uncommon Black-capped Antwren and believe it or not, scope views of the incredibly shy, White-throated Anitpitta! There was also a supporting cast of other new birds which included White-eyed and Green-cheeked Parakeets, Sick's Swift, Blue-crowned Trogon, Olivaceous and Black-banded Woodcreepers, Sepia-capped and Streaked Flycatchers, Ochre-faced Tody-Flycatcher, Yellow-olive Flatbill, Orange-headed and Guira Tanagers, Purple-throated Euphonia, Blue-black Grassquit and Saffron-billed Sparrow. Following dinner we returned to the park where a little spotlighting produced super close looks at the range restricted Hoy's Screech-Owl.
We spent the whole of the next day birding the upper slopes of Calilegua National Park birding a huge expanse of yungas cloudforest, with magnificent views at each bend in the road and good numbers of new birds. Our driver pointed out Gray-necked Wood-Rail, we actually taped in a pair of White-throated Quail-Doves, small flocks of Alder Parrots flew overhead, a Dark-billed Cuckoo showed well, one bend in the road produced the very beautiful Slender-tailed Woodstar, a Smoky-brown Woodpecker was observed climbing up the trunk of a large tree, Buff-banded Tyrannulets proved quite common at this altitude, an Andean Tyrant popped into view, as did a White-winged Becard, a Glossy-black Thrush flew through the dense foliage, we enjoyed good looks at the Stripe-headed Brushfinch, the Argentine endemic Fulvous-headed Brushfinch and a couple of Crested Oropendolas were observed close to their nest.
Continuing northwards we entered the altiplano and did some birding very close to the Bolivian border. In no time at all we chalked up three new species of birds, Puna Hawk, Mountain Caracara and Brown-backed Mockingbird. We were heading for the secluded hamlet of Yavi, which has the reputation of harbouring some very scarce species, including some birds that were once thought to only occur in Bolivia. New birds here included Bare-faced Ground-Dove, the spectacular and rare Wedge-tailed Hillstar, which is only known from a handful of sites in Bolivia and Jujuy. A Rock Earthcreeper performed well for us, as did the range restricted Rusty-vented Canestero, the D'Orbigny's Chat-Tyrant was a real treat and a Rufous-naped Ground-Tyrant was a surprise find. Black-hooded Sierra-Finches proved quite plentiful, as did both Common Diuca Finch and Citron-headed Yellowfinch. We also saw plenty of Vicunas during the days birding.
The following morning saw us back at the tiny hamlet of Yavi, very close to the border with Bolivia. Where we saw a few flocks of Mountain Parakeets, however, we also saw what was without a doubt, the mammal of the trip, when we enjoyed prolonged looks at the very smart looking Southern Viscacha. Mid-morning we headed for the Santa Victoria Mountains to do some high altitude birding. Unfortunately, a puncture had delayed us and the storm clouds were gathering in the mountains. A picnic lunch was enjoyed by all and we managed to find the following new birds, before the storm hit, Puna Tinamou, a much appreciated Grey-breasted Seedsnipe, both Common and Puna Miners, Plain-breasted and Straight-billed Earthcreepers, Cordilleran Canestero, a very unexpected Black-fronted Ground-Tyrant and Bright-rumped and Puna Yellowfinches. We then drove down from the mountains and had an early day in La Quiaca.
The following day as we headed south, we stopped to go birding at three high Andean lakes, close to Abra Pampa, new birds here included Silvery Grebe, Puna Ibis, Chilean and Puna Flamingos, Crested Duck, the very uncommon Giant Coot, Puna Plover, Andean Avocet, Golden-spotted Ground-Dove and the delightful Andean Negrito. We then continued our drive southwards to Yala, where we would spend the night. In the afternoon we did some birding in nearby scrub land which produced two new species of birds for the tour; the rather shy Rufous-capped Antshrike and the attractive Black-and-chestnut Warbling-Finch. After dinner we did a little spotlighting and enjoyed a Lyre-tailed Nightjar, sitting on a cliff face.
The following morning we drove to Argentina's most accessible high altitude alder forests, where our main target bird was to be the Argentine endemic Red-faced Guan. In no time at all, we were all enjoying terrific scope views of one of these birds, perched up, in a nearby tree. Other new birds included Streak-throated Bush Tyrant, Crested Becard and Rust-and-yellow Tanager. A spot of birding close to our hotel produced Spot-breasted Thornbird, yet another Argentine endemic and the Dusky-capped Flycatcher. In the afternoon we flew back to Buenos Aires, the capital city of Argentina, where we spent the night.
The following morning we drove to Buenos Aires International Airport, where we added one last bird to our trip list, there were plenty of Gray-breasted Martins nesting around the airport. |
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